Day 1: Welcome to India

Inner Pilot
May 26, 2013
5 min read

Updated: Dec 15, 2024

Jes, Andrew and Chris at Charminar (Old Hyderabad)

When you point your camera at an Indian, he pauses. Body and expression frozen, until he thinks you're done. It is as if he knows the camera will produce a still image but does not realize he can go about his business for it to happen. Or maybe it is that he doesn’t know what to do with himself in the presence of a camera.

Approaching the Outer Wall of Golconda (Hyderabad)

Jes and I arrived in Hyderabad at 2 AM. Andrew and Chris had arrived earlier, while Manish departed Hong Kong for Australia. After fumbling my way through customs, the first thing I did was to pull 15,000 Rupee out of an ATM. That sounds like a lot, but it's only around $270 US. It’s a fair stack of bills though: 5 each at 100 Rupee and 29 each at 500 Rupee; all sporting a portrait of their beloved Mahatma Gandhi.

Chris, Andrew, and Jes in Gridlock at Charminar (Old Hyderabad)

I’m going to share a lot of “first impressions” with you; those that sort of surprise me. Here’s the first: I felt like I was surrounded by a high percentage of Arabs. “Arab” and “Muslim” are two different things of course. But some of the Indians have, to me, similar features as Arabs and a significant percentage of Indians are Muslim; dressing and grooming accordingly. Then it hit me. I was not surrounded by visiting Arabs. I watched as a women with a burka removed her face veil for identification by a customs officer. These were Indians themselves. Then I remembered a conversation with another Indian friend back home who had explained that India has the second largest population of Muslims of any country.

Old Hyderabad

Then my second surprise even though already being warned about this by Manish yesterday: Two men walking close, holding and swinging hands as they strolled in a way that would be interpreted as VQ in most western societies. Apparently heterosexual men here often interact with physical affection such as this. I told Manish that my physical space is “this big”, holding my arms in the biggest loop I could make.

Pot Making along Roadside

The taxi driver took us on a long trip from the airport along a newer highway that was fairly quiet, which Jes clarified would be packed in the morning. There were people scattered everywhere, many in the prone position along the shoulder. Others were on motor scooters or small motorcycles often going the wrong direction at the edges and without headlights. They occasionally carried 3 people with none wearing helmets.

Our taxi driver used his anemic horn a lot, especially anytime he got near another vehicle. He often drove straddling the dashed line separating the two lanes going the same direction. I made a remark to Jes, basically pointing out that I wasn’t impressed with the driver’s approach. Then Jes put it in perspective. This highway was built to western standards, but in the morning the two official lanes would become in reality 5 lanes wide of traffic. The driver’s use of the horn was a way to help ensure everyone around knew he was there. It was the default defensive tactic.

Chris, Andrew, and Jes eating Thali (veggie curry sampler) by Hand

Some of us are thinking of taking bets on who of the group will get sick first. Apparently we are to expect that it will happen to all of us Western visitors. I’m already a germ-a-phob, and I think that attitude will serve me well here. My thinking: 'Don’t touch that. Aw, you touched it! Now go wash your hands. Don’t touch your face.' Now pit that against what Manish told me yesterday: Indian’s are communal with their food, placing it in the center of the group and using their right hands to serve and eat with. Also, one of the things Jes told us is that many Indians still believe toilet paper is un-sanitary, using their bare left hand to wipe their bottoms with. They wash that hand afterwards though, so don't worry too much. Just don’t get caught serving yourself up from the communal buffet using your left hand.

Atop Golconda with Guide

Manish and Jes gave some other tips: Don’t eat from street vendors. Only eat hot foods. Only eat fruit that has not been cut. Only drink bottled water from companies you know (such as Pepsi and Coke brands), including the water you use to prepare or wash the foods you'll eat. Skip the meats and go with a vegetarian diet (not just for sanitary reasons, but for taste and availability).

Traditional Indian Breakfast Foods

(bowl clockwise: sambar, uthappam, idly,

paratha with avakaya, vada, samia, potato curry)

We had a traditional Indian breakfast and lunch. Jes taught us the names so we’d know what to order on later parts of the trip when he won’t be with us. He demonstrated how to use fingers and thumb of one hand to mix curry with rice and lift it to your mouth. It's not so easy for the thinner curries or yogurt.

Jes, Andrew, and Chris along a busy Hyderabad Street

We took a stroll around the neighborhood and were (as far I was concerned) quit intimidated by the incredibly-tight, busy, and noisy traffic that seemed to obey no rules yet had some type of system and predictable flow all its own.

Our first attempt at crossing a busy road felt like a full on assault from all directions, and it ended in stalemate with cars, buses, and motorbikes stopped on our account. We chicked out, and though alive, felt pinned in a box. Jes, Andrew, Chris, and I just looked around and laughed, withdrawing again to the curb that we started from.

We finally got the hang of it. Jes said, just put out your arm and walk. My instinct was to run, but Jes said, “never run. You rely on the fact that it’s in their best interest not to hit you”. After settling into our new battle field-like environment for a while, Jes said, “you try it.” I snapped into action, putting out my arm out to an oncoming car. I calmly walked in front of its slowing pace until a motorcycle whizzed past the front of me and slowed my pace. I finally reached the opposite curve, turned to my mates on the other side and exclaimed, “I relied on the fact that it was in their best interest not to hit me!” This got some laughs and a hand shake and big smile from Jes when he made it himself.

Erik with Another Man's Children

Everyone seems to look at us; watch us. We clearly stand out to them. Perhaps most have never seen people like us in person. It is as if our exposed legs (none of the Indians are wearing shorts), Andrew’s height, the pale skin of Chris and I, and Jes’ apparent leadership of foreigners catch their eye. There were a number of times that we were asked to pose for a picture with someone’s friend or children. It’s quite charming to be appreciated, yet also a little uncomfortable being the object of so much attention.